Should Pocket Watches feature in your Collection?

If Erivan Haub’s extensive pocket watch collection is anything to go by, collecting vintage and antique pocket watches can be worth the price tag. Haub amassed an incredible pocket watch collection leading up to his death in 2018, with its worth estimated at a jaw-dropping $15 to $27m. 

So, if you’re looking for something a little different to round out your investment portfolio, don’t discount pocket watches just yet. 

Pocket Watches: A History Lesson

Pocket watches were the precursor to the wristwatch and were the height of fashion 500 years before the invention of wristwatches. First introduced in the 16th century, pocket watches were originally worn around the neck on a chain and only became ‘pocket-sized’ in the 17th century. 

These early pocket watches were marvels of craftsmanship, often adorned with intricate engravings and luxurious materials. They served as both practical timekeeping devices and symbols of status and wealth, cherished possessions passed down through generations.

Pocket watches played a significant role in shaping society, influencing punctuality and organisation in daily life. Their intricate mechanisms were a testament to human ingenuity and engineering prowess, marking a milestone in the history of timekeeping technology.

Despite the eventual rise of wristwatches in the 20th century, pocket watches remain revered artefacts of horological history, cherished by collectors and enthusiasts for their timeless elegance and historical significance.

Reasons to Add Antique and Vintage Pocket Watches to Your Collection

1) A number of notable names

During the Industrial Revolution in Britain, renowned watchmakers such as John Arnold & Son and Edward John Dent, who designed Big Ben, were prolific. Josiah Emery, who crafted Lord Nelson’s pocket watch, played a pivotal role in the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805 by enabling Nelson to synchronise with other Naval officers’ watches, ensuring a decisive victory over the French and Spanish fleets. Other notable British watchmakers include Charles Frodsham, George Graham, Thomas Mudge, and George Daniels, often hailed as the greatest watchmaker of his generation.

Swiss pocket watches also have a rich history, largely thanks to the skilled Huguenot watchmakers who fled France during the French Wars of Religion in the 16th century and settled in Switzerland. Their expertise transformed Geneva into a world centre for highly skilled watchmaking, a status it maintains to this day. 

Leading Swiss brands, which later became famous for wristwatch complications, started with pocket watches. These include Audemars Piguet, Breguet, IWC, Patek Philippe, Vacheron & Constantin, and Zenith. Vintage pocket watches from these esteemed watchmakers or those associated with significant historical events often command higher prices. Additionally, the rarity of certain models or limited editions enhances their value and desirability among collectors.

2) Hardwearing construction

Pocket watches crafted from the 1700s until the mid-1900s were renowned for their durability. They were typically constructed with sturdy materials like gold, silver, or brass. Beyond their robustness, these timepieces also showcase the exquisite craftsmanship of a bygone era, a quality often overshadowed by today’s emphasis on mass production techniques. Many vintage pocket watches boast intricate ornamental decorations, including intricate engravings, delicate hand paintings, and elaborate filigree work, showcasing the artisanal skills of the past.

Moreover, vintage pocket watches offer significantly more space compared to modern wristwatches, which typically measure around 40 mm in diameter. This ample space allows for the realisation of elaborate designs and the incorporation of larger sub-dials, enhancing both the aesthetic appeal and functionality of these timeless timepieces.

3) Unique style

Vintage pocket watches possess a distinctive style. Kept safely within the waistcoat pocket, these timepieces were retrieved with a delicate gold chain to check the time. It became a customary ritual for men to frequently consult their pocket watches, deemed a mark of masculinity. Another pleasurable routine was the daily winding of the pocket watch, adding to the charm and allure of these timeless accessories.

4) Inheritance gifts

Pocket watches were traditionally meticulously crafted to withstand the test of time and often served as cherished heirlooms passed down from generation to generation. 

Sir Winston Churchill’s Breguet Reference 765 pocket watch, which he inherited from his father, John Spencer Churchill, is a prime illustration of this enduring legacy. Despite Churchill’s notorious reputation as a tardy individual, his Breguet, affectionately dubbed ‘The Turnip’, remained a beacon of precision timekeeping. 

Churchill’s staff would frequently preempt his habitual lateness by setting the household clocks fifteen minutes ahead. However, Churchill, armed with his dependable Breguet, effortlessly thwarted their efforts to keep him punctual, always privy to the accurate time. Remarkably, ‘The Turnip’ continues to keep impeccable time to this day, requiring servicing only once since its acquisition.

Pros of Collecting Pocket Watches

• Historical value: Many antique pocket watches are historically important and coveted by collectors and enthusiasts alike because they relate to important events, people, or specific times.

• Aesthetic appeal: Pocket watches have a timeless appeal. They reflect the artistic sensibilities of each era. Highly collectable pocket watches with delicate filigree patterns and enamel decorations are fascinating pieces that are modern reminders of a bygone era.

• Unique and rare: Many fine pocket watches are rare and difficult to find, which adds to their appeal and value. Pocket watches often have their own provenance, with different designs, movements and origins. 

• Investment opportunity: Similar to wristwatches, certain pocket watches, such as military watches, offer significant investment potential. Military pocket watches are designed specifically for military personnel and often feature luminous dials and rugged cases. 

Additionally, limited or rare pocket watches from well-known watchmakers such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron & Constantin and Breguet have steadily increased in value over time.

• Mechanical mastery: If you like  timepieces with an audible tick, a pocket watch could be the collector’s item for you. From the oscillation of balance wheels to the precision of escapements, pocket watches represent an era when horologists pushed the boundaries of mechanical engineering. 

• A connection to the past: Pocket watches offer a sense of connection to the past, allowing individuals to carry a piece of history with them. Excellent as conversation starters, they can spark interest and admiration from others. 

Cons to Collecting Pocket Watches

• Affordability: Pocket watches can vary significantly in price, and some high-quality or vintage models can be expensive. The George Daniels Space Traveller 2 pocket watch sold at auction for $4.32m. 

• Condition and maintenance: Pocket watches, particularly antique ones, require regular maintenance and care to keep them in good working condition. The costs can add up over time, making it an ongoing expense for owners.

• Availability and authenticity: Finding a pocket watch that meets your criteria may be challenging. Additionally, the market is flooded with counterfeit pocket watches, making it crucial for buyers to thoroughly research and authenticate the timepiece before making a purchase.

• Limited functionality: Compared to modern wristwatches, pocket watches often have limited functionality. They typically display complications such as a date or small seconds sub-dial. Those who rely on additional features like alarms, timers, or fitness tracking may be better served with a smart watch. As the name implies, pocket watches need to be kept in a pocket. There have been many instances where the pocket watch has gone through the wash cycle and been ruined. 

• Investment risk: You are buying old tech, so market trends, changes in demand, and the condition of the watch can impact its value. There is no guarantee of a profitable return on investment.

• Storage considerations: Pocket watches require proper storage to protect them from damage. Factors such as humidity, temperature fluctuations, and exposure to direct sunlight can negatively impact their condition. 

What The Future Market Has In-Store for Pocket Watches

Pocket watches have often been overshadowed by the popularity of vintage wristwatches, which is a shame. Wristwatches offer a sleek and convenient time-keeping option, easily accessible with just a glance at the wrist. In contrast, pocket watches necessitate removal from a pocket or bag for time checking, which can be less practical for modern lifestyles.

Currently, the collector community predominantly focuses on wristwatches, potentially ignoring interest in pocket watches. However, this shift in focus presents an opportunity for savvy collectors to unearth remarkable bargains in the pocket watch market, provided they conduct thorough research. 

As time passes, the scarcity of well-preserved pocket watches is expected to increase, particularly as some dealers resort to melting down multiple pocket watches solely for their precious metal content. Looking ahead, making definitive predictions about the future of pocket watches is challenging, especially with the younger generation embracing smartwatches. Nonetheless, pockets of enthusiasts and connoisseurs continue to appreciate the timeless appeal and craftsmanship of these historical timepieces.

Top Tips for Collecting Vintage and Antique Pocket Watches

Collecting vintage and antique pocket watches requires meticulous attention to detail, where thorough research often leads to the most rewarding purchases. Here are some key tips to bear in mind as you start collecting or broaden your collection:

Research:

Get some background research under your belt. Find out about the different brands and models and their historical significance. Learn about the various movements (mechanisms) used in pocket watches, such as mechanical or quartz. Gain expert knowledge from forums, websites, and auction platforms, where fellow collectors share information and discuss pocket watches. 

Budget:

Any hobby requires investment, and this is no exception. Be prepared to invest a reasonable amount of money in acquiring quality pieces. Start with the more affordable pocket watches to start your collection or if you have a limited budget. As your knowledge and budget grow, you can gradually pursue more valuable and sought-after timepieces.

Preferences:

Which eras and styles interest you? By asking yourself questions about your collecting preferences, this strategy will help you curate a collection that you love, and that reflects your unique taste. Equally important is to establish what you don’t want in your collection. Some collectors avoid watches in poor condition, those with non-original parts, or pieces with questionable authenticity.

Dealers:

Get to know trustworthy and knowledgeable watch dealers who can really help to guide you.  Look for vintage and antique pocket watch dealers with a good reputation within the collecting community. Attending watch fairs, auctions, and trade shows where dealers and collectors gather is a good idea. 

Auctions and trade shows:

Auctions serve as an excellent platform for purchasing unique and rare pocket watches. However, prior to each auction, in-depth research around the watches on offer and their estimated value will help you stick within your budget. Trade shows and exhibitions allow you to peruse a wide range of watches in one place, allowing you to see, touch, and examine them up close. 

Condition and authenticity:

Inspecting pocket watches for condition and authenticity is a must. Look out for signs of wear, damage, or repairs that may affect its value. Originality is highly prized, so be cautious of watches with replaced parts or significant alterations. Consult with experts or experienced collectors to help you identify any potential red flags or issues.

Want to find out more?

If vintage and antique pocket watch collecting becomes your passion, you embark on a horological journey with a long, fascinating and rewarding learning curve. 

Here at Vintage Gold Watches we count ourselves among the experts you can consult, so do feel free to get in touch. If you have any specific questions about vintage or antique pocket watches please talk to us, and we will do our best to answer your queries. 

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Alan Wood, founder of Vintage Gold Watches, is a trusted vintage watch dealer with over 35 years of private collecting experience. His deep knowledge and infectious passion for mechanical timepieces have earned him a highly respected reputation in the industry. Vintage Gold Watches, established in 2011, has become a reputable dealer thanks to Alan’s expertise and a skilled team of restorers. Alan’s love for vintage watches started as a young Mechanical Engineer and grew into an obsession. He believes the finest watches were made in the 1950s, ‘60s, and ‘70s, and he is thrilled to share them with others.